Triton Shower Not Working? Here’s Why
When showers work, they’re wonderful contraptions. But when they begin to falter, it can be incredibly frustrating. Sure, you could take a cold shower with barely any water pressure, but that’s not exactly the goal, right? So if your Triton shower is not working, you’re likely wondering where to begin. Can you fix this yourself? Do you need to call a professional? Is it broken forever? There’s only one way to find out – keep reading.
The most common issues with a Triton shower that’s not working are the solenoid valve, Pressure Relief Device (PRD), Thermal Cut-Out (TCO), flow valve, or the microswitch.
Those are some fancy words that mean just about nothing without proper explanation. Let’s break that down, yeah?
Common Triton Shower Problems
Okay, we know that your shower isn’t working, but what exactly is going on will determine what needs to be fixed. Skim through the below symptoms and we’ll talk about how to get these issues fixed. And on the plus side, most of these fixes are pretty simple as long as you’re slightly handy.
Varying Water Temperature
If your shower is going back and forth from hot and cold water, there’s one thing that is likely to have failed. Your shower isn’t getting enough water!
The first thing to check is that your water main valve is fully open. If your shower uses a specialised valve (common with electric showers), check that. If it is, double-check that the valve on your shower is also open.
Should neither of those valves be the issue (that would be nice, right?), then the most likely cause is the flow valve and pressure switch. While these can vary heavily depending on the make and model of your shower, they’re generally going to be a small valve or switch assembly inside the main box of your shower. Should this go out, it’s often best to get help from Triton Customer Service in finding the part that you’ll need.
This video will give you a basic walkthrough in replacing a flow valve, though your process will vary slightly depending on the model of your shower.
Loss of Hot Water
While a cold shower can be a bit of a wake-up call, they’re not exactly ideal when you’re trying to relax. The most likely cause of a Triton shower that’s entirely lost hot water is the TCO. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) is designed to cut power to the heating elements when your shower overheats.
If this is happening repeatedly, it’s likely that you’ll need to replace your TCO. But first, you’ll need to test it!
Here’s what to do:
- Cut electricity and water to your shower at the main valve and circuit breaker.
- Open the cover and locate your TCO, usually on the top of the heating tank.
- Take a multimetre and attach a probe to each metal handle on the TCO (there should be two).
- If you read an open circuit, the TCO will need replacement. If it beeps (detects a current) it’s not the problem and you should contact your manufacturer for assistance.
The second possible cause of this issue is a failure of your heating element. To check if this is the issue, you’ll need to do the same thing as above:
- Cut electricity and water to the shower.
- Locate the heating tank. The element is inside, usually at the bottom.
- There should be two wires, blue or black/brown, depending on the model of your shower.
- Connect your multimetre’s black probe to the blue wire, and the red probe to the black/brown wire.
- Should your heating element give a reading of 11-18 ohms, your heating element isn’t the issue. If it’s 1 or a zero, it’s gonna need replacing.
Replacing the heating element is generally pretty simple and involves removing a few screws and rewiring the new heating element into place. If you’re not experienced or comfortable with electric work, it’s likely best to get professional help on this one.
Low Water Pressure and/or Tepid Water
This is generally caused by your microswitch. Whether it’s burnt out or was installed incorrectly, you’ll need to test it in the same manner as you did above. Locate the microswitch (attached to the heating element) and test it for continuity.
If you get an ohm reading of 1 or 0, it is burnt out and will need to be replaced. Again, while this is a theoretically simple fix, if you’re not certain in your ability to wire a new switch into your shower, it’s likely best left to the professionals.
Water From the Bottom of the Shower
This is likely caused by a minor leak issue (which you can learn more about troubleshooting here) or your Pressure Relief Device (PRD). The PRD comes in a number of shapes and sizes depending on the make and model of your shower, but they’re generally a small ball that’s ejected when the water pressure spikes.
The first thing to check here is that your showerhead is clean (cleaning guide detailed in the article above) and the hose isn’t kinked. If you’ve ensured neither is the case, you may need to replace the PRD. To do so, keep reading.
Replacing a Triton PRD
- First things first, turn off power and water to your shower at the mains.
- Also, when buying a new PRD, ensure it comes with a new O-ring.
- Remove the shower hose and unscrew the outlet pipe.
- The PRD will be a coloured piece of plastic that’s different in colour from the surrounding parts, usually white with black bits everywhere else. Unscrew it.
- Press your replacement into place. Screw it into its home, ensuring the new O-ring is snugly in position.
- Put everything back and test your shower!
Zero Water Flow or Back and Forth Water Flow
The last possible (likely) issue is that your solenoid valve has failed. First things first – this is a potentially dangerous repair.
If you’re not entirely comfortable and experienced with electronic work, you should call a professional for help. This particular fix requires that you turn off all power and water as well as remove the fuse from your fuse board.
If you’re dead-set on performing this yourself, this is what to do:
- Turn off all power at the breaker, remove the fuse from the fuse board, and shut off water at the main.
- Locate your solenoid valve. They’re generally at the bottom of the shower unit and compose of a coil and valve.
- Place your multimetre probes on the terminals and test. The only acceptable reading here is between 3.5-4 kilo-ohms. Anything else, and it’s failed and needs to be replaced.
Replacing the Valve
- You’ll want to replace the whole assembly here, so order a new valve and coil.
- Remove the plate blocking access to the valve’s screws.
- Grab a photo of how everything is set up to help installation along.
- Unscrew the bits holding the valve in place, gently wiggling it out in once piece.
- Disconnect the tube terminals.
- Rewire your new valve and coil into place, screwing them into the exact same position. Ensure everything is secure.
- Replace the fuse in your fuse board, and turn water and power back on. Test.
- If you messed up somewhere – call a professional for help. This can be a complicated process if you’re not great with this sort of thing.
If your Triton Shower is not working, there are a few pretty important bits to check. Of course, if it’s a minor change in water pressure, it could be something as simple as a kinked hose or dirty showerhead. Otherwise, you’ll likely have to do a bit of detective work to find the culprit. Once you have determined the source of your issues, you’ll have a decision to make. Are you comfortable with these repairs? While most of them are pretty straightforward, others require being able to properly wire everything together.
If you aren’t comfortable with any of the steps here, just call Triton customer service and get a tech out to help you with the replacement. One way or another, you’ll have the issue fixed quickly, and hiring a professional to get it done will make things go quicker with less room for accidents. Plus, you get to sit back, make a drink, and watch the pros do what they do best.